STYLED in the latest streamline, roomy, yet light and sturdy, this trailer affords you all the comforts of home. "Roadability" is assured by a clever arrangement of interior fittings to give an equal distribution of weight. An underslung axle of unique and original design maintains a low center of gravity and at the same time provides a spring seat as close to the wheel as possible. The tubular construction of the axle reduces the unsprung weight to the minimum.

Construction begins with the sills. Fig. 1 gives you a perspective view of the under-frame assembled, and over in Figs. 4 and 5 you will find the essential dimensions. The sills, A in Fig. 1, are of selected hard maple, 2 1/4 by 4 in. in cross section, and are joined by spruce cross members, B, 1 1/2 by 2 1/2 in. in section. All joints are mortised and secured with 3/16-in. carriage bolts.

The care you use in mortising determines to a great extent the rigidity and strength of the frame. Accuracy in laying out the spacing and depth of the cuts and the use of a miter box in sawing down the shoulders of the mortises will assure a close fit. Scoring the depth of each mortise with a marking gauge will aid in chipping out the waste with a chisel, as the last few chips will break off at the scored line. Now you level two sawhorses on the floor and place the sills on these. Then with the cross members in place you can check the fit of all the joints and bore the 5/16-in. holes for the bolts. When you bore these holes, it will help to clamp the parts tightly together so that the bit goes through the two members as though they were one piece.

Now that you've progressed to this stage, you're ready to start with the axle. As shown in Fig. 2, this is a simple affair consisting of two wheel-spindle brackets of electric steel joined with a chrome-molybdenum tube. You can buy the tube but it will probably be necessary to make the spindle brackets. The additional cost of this work will be money well spent, as this type of axle is so far superior to anything that can be improvised from standard auto parts. After you get your axle made up as suggested in Fig. 2, you make a trial fit on the springs, but do not attach the axle permanently to the frame as the latter must remain on the sawhorses until the upper structure is set up.

You will need two folding jacks to support the rear end of the trailer when it is parked. These are attached to the sills with a bracket as in Fig. 1; they serve to prevent tipping and ease the weight resting on the tires. Provide a reliable catch or hook so that the jacks will not drop down when you're on the road. You can also get out the filler pieces, C in Fig. 1.

NOW that you have completed the trailer chassis, Fig. 8 shows what's next. Notice first, from Figs. 11 and 14, that the position of the vertical and horizontal members differs on the two sides of the frame. The end frames, Fig. 9, are identical with exception of the top cross member, which is 1 in. lower on the rear frame. To start the framing, set up the corner studs, E in Fig. 8, then follow with the top rails, H, and those across the ends, M, which are double. At the lower ends the studs are halved and screwed to the cross members, B. Then the filler blocks, C in Fig. 8, are screwed to the lower rail, D, to complete the joint. All joints in the entire frame are set in waterproof casein glue and wherever vertical and horizontal members join, the two parts are halved to make a flush joint which is held, with a 1-in. screw. Some care is necessary in mortising, as a tight joint adds greatly to the strength of the structure.

Fig. 16 shows when to join the sheathing. It is all installed with flat-head, 3/4- in. brass screws, neatly countersunk. The joints of the panels meet in the center of studs or other frame members, but around windows and door frames the edges should come flush with the inside of the frames. On the right side, before the panel is screwed on, the filler cap and pipe for the water tank should be installed. If you wish to make double walls, you can use the same material on the interior walls. Some minor changes in the interior, such as position of cabinets and wiring, will be necessary if you decide on double walls.

ONE glance at the cutaway view above and you have the whole story of the interior furnishings. There's your kitchen, dining and living room, and two bedrooms with clothes closet space. When you stop along the road for the night, there's nothing to unpack, no ropes or awnings to bother with. Simply uncouple the trailer from the car and park it in any convenient place. One person handles it easily, even when fully loaded.

Now to finish the job. Remaining exterior details are application of the roof of auto-top canvas and, if you have so decided, a fabric covering of the body. In putting on the latter, you apply the lower half of the wall covering first, then lap the upper half over it, using copper tacks. A strip of auto-fabric binding is tacked over the seam. Fig. 24 gives you the distribution of the material, and the sectional views, Figs. 19 and 20, and the detail in Fig. 21 show what to do when finishing up the top at the outer edge and around the ventilator openings in the sides of the raised center section. Bindings of light aluminum angle are used to finish all corners of the body as in Fig. 18. Where the top canvas overlaps the sides it's a good idea to apply a light coating of marine glue under the seam. Aluminum gutters around the edges of the top finish this part of the job.

Window sash are made of white pine, rabbeted as illustrated in Fig. 23, the corners joined with casein glue, dowels and corrugated fasteners. The same figure shows how the copper screen is tacked to the inside of the window frame. All windows swing outward on offset hinges as in Figs. 17 and 18. Jointed brackets hold the windows in any position. After you finish the exterior of the body you can permanently install the A-frame and coupling and also the tail and clearance lights.

When you go inside, the first job is painting. An undercoating and two applications of eggshell enamel in ivory or cream should take care of this. Remember that you can easily make a double-walled job by sheathing the interior walls and ceiling with pressed board or plywood. Now's the time to do this if you desire. The interior walls and ceiling painted; the next job is the floor. A linoleum covering, cemented down, adds to the attractiveness of the interior and is easier to clean.

Now over to Figs. 25, 27 and 28 for the views and plan of the stove, cupboard and sink. Fig. 25 shows a space-saving arrangement of the drainboard. The latter slides down over the sink when not in use, and the swinging arm which supports it when open folds back against the cabinet.

The drain pipe from the sink is led down through the fender, the end being bent so that the water does not strike the road wheel. The cabinet which houses the cook stove is fitted with two drawers, a sliding shelf, and a cupboard which houses the storage battery with additional room for large utensils. There is more cupboard space above the stove. A 3-in. vent, made as in Fig. 27, passes through this cupboard and the roof to carry off cooking fumes.

In the main the framing for this cabinet can be the same material as the body frame, 1 1/4 by 1 1/4-in. spruce. For panels you can use pressed board or plywood. Doors, drawer fronts, and the sliding shelf are best cut from 3/4-in. fir plywood. Fig. 28, with a plan and elevation, shows you where to place the cabinet on the wall. Doors should have positive catches so that. they do not swing open on the road.

Installation of the clothes closet and the chemical toilet as in Figs. 29 and 30 just about completes the job. The elevation, Fig. 29, will give you the size and position of these closets. For material you can use either plywood or pressed board. It will save time to cut the doors from 3/4-in. fir plywood for then there is no frame to make. 

Notice that there is a flap hinged to the clothes closet door. This flap hooks to the corner of the stove cabinet, the arrangement forming a partition. All doors should have spring catches to hold them closed. The chemical toilet is vented to the roof through the clothes closet as in Fig. 29. There is a folding writing desk hinged to the back of the clothes closet under a mirror.

Both can be made up into double beds. When folded there is space in a lower compartment for the bedding. You will save time by buying these readymade, as they are inexpensive. Fasten each to the floor with bolts or screws.

Now you come to painting the cabinets, and, if you want a first-class job, give the walls one more coat. If the doors have been cut from 3/4- in. plywood, as is recommended, it will be necessary to fill the edges of the plywood.