Float-A-Home is a 21-footer that provides plenty of living space for three or four persons. An extremely simple houseboat to build, it features a strong hull with a heavy keel and close-spaced framing. This, coupled with a relatively low profile, makes it a very stable craft.

Features include a conning room designed to provide an unobstructed view forward and to the sides through glare-proof, swing-away windows. The settee behind the helm extends to make a full length berth, and in the main cabin, steps at the companionway can be removed to make way for a fold-away berth. Of course, the entire interior arrangement can be worked out to best suit your individual needs. Shown is an arrangement where a section of the after deck is left open to provide a patio effect on the starboard side, while the galley is to port.

Make all measurements for framing directly on the wood stock, and cut out the pieces. Cut out the transom panel and frame #1A from 3/4-in. marine plywood. In all the following steps, be sure to coat mating surfaces with marine resorcinol glue before final fastening with screws, bolts, or nails.

Make up the transom as shown in Fig. 6, and the balance of the frames as shown in Fig. 6 and Fig. 3. Use plywood gussets to reinforce the frame corners. Notch all frames for keel, chines, and clamps, and notch frames #1 and #1A for the stem assembly.

Notch the keel for the transom knee, as shown in Fig. 6, and install the keel. It is fastened to the transom knee with two 3/8-in. x 6-in. #10 bolts, and to each frame with a similar bolt long enough to go through the keel and frame (and through keel, stem, and frame at #1). Countersink for all bolt heads, and fill the holes with wood putty. It's a good idea to cut a rabbet groove along each side of the keel at the fairbody (the line where bottom paneling meets the keel) to take the edges of the bottom panels. If this is not done, you should fiberglass this joint to make it watertight and strong.

Next attach the clamps. These and the chines and carlins are cut from lengths of 1 5/8-in. x 5 1/2-in. stock, as shown in Fig. 4. Cut a notch along the bottom edge of each clamp, as shown. The top edge of the plywood side panels will lie in this groove. In fastening the clamps, start at the transom and work forward, alternating from one side of the boat to the other at each frame. This helps to keep stress on the framework even.

Give the finished hull at least three coats of a good marine paint, and allow to dry thoroughly. Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions carefully for best results. Turn the hull right side up, and paint all interior surfaces that will be difficult, or impossible, to reach after flooring, bulkheads, cabinets, and other joiner work is done.

Install the floor battens in the same manner as the bottom battens were done. Install the carlins as shown in Fig. 3 and Fig. 5, and finish off the hull interior with Masonite or 1/4-in. marine plywood ceilings (interior side paneling).

Install the roof beams across each pair of uprights, after notching them for the headers. Install the headers in the same manner as hull clamps and chines, then notch for the roof battens and install them. Fasten cabin panels and the sun deck in place, with 1-in. #8 flat head screws spaced about 2-in. apart, and add the finishing trim and molding after the narrow side decks and fore deck have been fitted.