At this point the outer roof ceiling can be fastened on. It is made of 3/16” pressed wood sheet, cut in convenient panels and bolted with 1/8" machine screws into the ridge and channel members. There will have to be occasional filler blocks placed in the angles for the wood to bear against. Under the forward crown of the ridge pole or center channel you will cut a 1/2" by 1 1/4" plywood carlin or former into which you can later fasten the inner ceiling at this point. The curved formers at the rear of the roof are. as the drawing shows, 3/4" by 1 3/4" carlins. These are fastened to the channel with 16 or 14-gauge clips, and bolted through. Use screws on the wooden members to fasten the pressed wood down, starting at the center ridge, and working the panels down to the edge.

After the outer portion of the roof is attached, wire up the trailer for lights. There should be three circuits: one for 110 volts for use in parks and in the rear of your home, where you may want to use the trailer as a spare bedroom. There should also be a set of wires for the smaller voltage lights which can be run from the car battery upon occasion, or from an independent generator set. The third set of wires connects directly from car to running lights, which consist of a red tail light with license plate, brake light, required by law in most states, and the blue beam limit lights which insurance companies require if you are to have coverage, and which in most states is required by law.

Plan the light outlets to suit the layout you have chosen. About four 110-volt lights, and 6 to 12-volt outlets are sufficient. All of the leads can be carried from the car to the trailer through a rubber covered cable about 1/2" diameter, with five or six colored wires im-bedded; enough to carry whatever circuit you want.

Since no car battery can stand the strain of more than one overnight operation of trailer lighting requirements, a small A. C. generator, powered by the car's motor should be used.

The pants for the wheels must be so fashioned that they will have about 1" clearance over the wheels when the spring is fully depressed.

The trailer floor is built of 5-ply 3/4" fir panels bolted through the filler blocks laid in the channel irons, with the heads counter-sunk as shown in the detail plans. The clips are set in by rough saw cuts as this portion of the floor is covered later by the ceiling.

Screw 1" half round between the stanchions with its bearing face flush to the inside face of the stanchions. This will afford a hold for the inner ceiling, which may be of 1/8" or 3/16" fir plywood, or pressed wood.

Painting the framework is next. Use boiled linseed all and turpentine, mixed half and half and kept in a double boiler to heat it. Apply a coat of the mixture to all the outside wooden members and steel work. Apply several coats to the wood to prevent dry rot.

Before putting on the outside ceiling, cover the roof with grade A muslin, and dope it with airplane dope, after which the roof is sprinkled with aluminum powder.

Now for the outside ceiling, which completes the work. The water tanks and the piping for the shower have been put in, and you are ready to finish up the job. This is merely a matter of doping the right size panels to cover the frame, laying it on with good thick casein glue, which holds like grim death, and prevents body squeaks. Use No. 8 3/4" chromium head screws set in piano washers for this, spacing about centers about 9". The seams of the panels should be joined on a jointer, and not left rough as they come from the saw. It would be well to fill the seam with casein as the panels go on, wiping off the outer edges immediately with a damp rag.

On the bottom and at the seam where the roof meets the side, put 1/2" oval aluminum stripping. At the roof, there will be an out gage caused by the crown. Fill this with Jeffery's C quality marine glue, applying hot from a squirt can. The can will pay out enough to make a full seam. Keep a can of turpentine and a rag handy to enable you to avoid sticking up the job. Marine glue must be put on hot, and all slop-overs wiped off immediately. The heating can be done in a pot of boiling water. Keep the glue away from all flames. A bead of glue should also be run around the edges of the ventilators.

A few coats of good spar varnish are applied both inside and out as there is nothing as weather resistant.

The skirt molding is put on, and the trailer is finished except for the interior joiner work such as drawers and closet doors.

The hitch is a good ball and socket type. There are many ways of installing these, but it has been proved best to do it, using both welded joints, for rigidity, and bolts for security. You cannot afford to have a failure occur here. The ball end and the details of this part of the hitch must be taken from the car itself. Fasten the ball hitch to the car frame, and NOT TO THE BUMPER.