Camping Trailer Plans | Build a Crank Up Hardtop Canvas Camp Trailer

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Camping Trailer Plans
Build a Crank Up Hardtop Canvas Camp Trailer

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Camping Trailer Plans
Build a Crank Up Hardtop Canvas Camp Trailer

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Crank up hardtop canvas camping trailer set up at campsite.

Compact when on the road, it is transformed by the turn of a handle into a roomy cabin that sleeps six.
By Don Armstrong

AFTER a summer vacation spent camping in the bush with a tent, my family and I were convinced there was no better way to enjoy a holiday together. We decided to go one step further in camping and avail ourselves of the benefits of a trailer. I wanted one that would be compact but at the same time have a solid roof. The one I have designed has proved itself very successful after 4,000 miles of travel. It is easy to set up, sleeps four to six people and tracks very well behind the car. The cost of building it was about $300.

To set about making the trailer you must get hold of an axle. Mine was from the front of a 1937 Chevrolet. I had it cut in the center and an extra seven inches added to give more floor space in the trailer. To cut the angle iron pieces for the chassis it is a good idea to draw out a full-scale plan on the floor. This simplifies cutting the pieces to fit before welding. After welding the frame and the draw bar, the spring hangers should be positioned and welded in place. The axle and spring assembly are then bolted on and work can begin on the floor.

Camping Trailer Construction Details (Sheet 1)

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Cut the 2 x 4 joists to length, place them on edge, 16-inches on center, and bolt them to the frame. Nail the side stringers to the ends of the floor joists. To make the floor as solid as possible, metal rods are bolted through the side stringers to the angle frame, four on each side. The plywood floor sheets may then be laid crosswise and nailed with two-inch spiral nails, one nail every eight inches.

All pieces for the wall framework should be cut to length and laid out in position ready for nailing. The sides and ends are nailed together before being attached to the floor. To increase rigidity, the wall and floor are drilled to take metal rods, four on each side and two at each end.

Nail on the 1/4-inch exterior plywood with 1 1/4-inch anchor nails and trim all edges on the outside. When completed, the trailer's wall is three inches thick, to accommodate the roof, the folds in the canvas and the molding which holds the canvas to the inside of the box.

Camping Trailer Construction Details (Sheet 2)

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Next the storage bin framework and wheel wells are constructed from 2 x 2's. The inside of the trailer box is then lined with 1/8-inch Masonite. To weather-proof the top surface of the box's sides it is covered with galvanized iron soldered at all joints and bent to extend 1/2-inch down the inside and outside edges where it is nailed.

The rafters are cut with a one-inch slope from the center to each end. I made sure that there was 1/4-inch clearance between the roof and the sides and ends of the box after cutting all the rafters. They are placed on top of the box, 16 inches on center, with a 1 x 3 1/4-inch board nailed to the ends of the rafters on both sides. To provide for fastening the canvas to the roof, strips are nailed to the sides under the rafters. Strips of plywood can then be cut for the roof's edge.

ONE operation, the turning of the winch, raises roof and unfolds walls of canvas.

The plywood sheets for the roof should be cut slightly oversize to be planed down after nailing and gluing in place. Apply exterior-type glue all around the edges of the roof and with special care where the seams join. Sand all edges and fill in cracks ready for painting.

The winches which raise and lower the roof have drums of two-inch pipe with a four-inch-diameter plate welded to each end. Each inside plate has a ratchet for locking. The winch assembly is mounted under the frame with two pillow bearings. Next, the pipe brackets and guides made from 1/4-inch plate and 1 1/4-inch pipe welded together are drilled and welded to the box and to the roof. Stainless pipe was used so it would not rust. The brackets are shimmed in order to keep the roof from binding when it is raised or lowered. The pulleys are then bolted to the roof, right through the rafters at each end.

DOUBLE-DECKER bunk across front of trailer sleeps two at each level, is four feet wide.

To support the roof four 7-foot lengths of one-inch conduit pipe are used. Two of the pipes have a pulley mounted at the top and the other two have a slot to take the end of the cable. Both pieces of the 3/16-inch cable must be cut exactly the same length, approximately 22 feet. A brass button soldered at each end of the cable prevents it from slipping out of the winch or the pipe slot.

Four 2-foot pieces of conduit are used for the leveling jacks. These pieces also serve to hold the roof down when traveling. They are inserted upside down into the roof support bracket and locked in place by the wing nuts.

WITH everything snugly stowed for the road, trailers low silhouette makes towing easy.

A small door at the rear of the trailer box allows easy access for packing when the roof is down. After wiring for running lights and painting the outside of the trailer, work can begin on the interior.