The top lowers onto the bottom body by the simple expedient of fastening the roof frame to pipes, which slide down into larger pipes set in the body. To raise, merely lift the top, insert plugs, and the top is rigid, waterproof, and cool. Slack in canvas. is taken up by merely adjusting the sliding pipes. In traveling, the top lowers onto the body, is fastened down with auto curtain fasteners, and you're ready to ramble.

First take a selected 4x4 spruce, 15 1/2” long, for the keel. This projects 1 1/2' and provides the tongue, on which you later fasten a regulation trailer hitch.

A 2"x4" frame is then constructed and attached to the keel to form the trailer bed or foundation which is 14 feet long by 6 feet wide. The keel and frame members are braced as shown in Fig. 1 by means of pieces of angle iron and steel brackets.

By studying Fig. 1 it will be seen that the angle iron braces are used only to strengthen the truss about the spring bearers. Fig. 2A shows a typical joint. All remaining joints are strengthened with steel brackets (Fig 2B). With the diagonally laid flooring in place, as shown in Fig. 4, this construction will be found sufficiently strong and rigid to carry any running gear.

The floor should run crosswise to the keel in order to increase rigidity. Make a neat job laying the grooved wood flooring by slanting your nails towards the last board laid.

With floor laid and edges trimmed take the eight pieces of pipe end bolt them in place. Although the specified length is given as 42 inches, it is best to check this against your body frame so that no more than 3/4" of pipe projects through the cap strip. The 3/16" plug holes which you have previously drilled should be in line with the cap strip. A steel bracket is added to each of the posts forming the door jamb as shown in Figs. 4 and 7 - screw them directly into the floor. Now for the pressed wood siding; interior detail, and such items as the door and the upper jamb.

The door, if you do not obtain one from a sash and door factory, can be made as shown in Fig. 8. It is in two sections; the bottom part secured with pin butt hinges, and the upper part attached to the lower with the type of spring hasp used on auto trunks.

You are now ready for the pressed wood siding. This comes in large sheets and is sawed to fit. Trim the corners and lower edge of the body with lightweight angle iron. Wood or brass trimming may be substituted to save money but angle iron is recommended. Do not trim the top edges of the body with moulding at this time as it will be utilized to hold the canvas covering in place when you fit the top.

The interior may be finished off with plywood after you have installed your lockers and other furnishings. The bunk lockers, running along the sides and over the wheel guards allow for seats and form the inner part of the bunk shelf. Interior detail is left to the builder. Harry rigged a clever sink arrangement in Sir Guy's trailer whereby the water tank, of galvanized iron, can be lifted off and carried to pump or spring for fresh water. Such a tank is suggested in the drawings (Fig. 7).

Now to tackle the top and complete the bunk. The upper part and top of the collapsible trailer is held in place by eight 3/4" pipes which slide in the pipes already set into the side and corners of the lower body.

The 3/4" pipes are cut in 3 1/2-foot lengths and drilled with 3/16" holes at six-inch intervals. A heavy eyebolt is welded into the top of each pipe and it is attached to the lower roof rail by a large eyehook. The smaller pipes slide in the larger ones and when you raise the top you hold it up by pushing a large nail or cotter pin through the holes.

Before proceeding with the roof however it is well to complete your bunk flaps. As previously explained, the bunk foundation rests on the locker seats and projects, on hinges, from the trailer body. The hinged portion, which is fully covered in Figs. 11 to 14., can be built up to suit or as shown with a simple sheet of 3/4" plywood. Place auto curtain fasteners under the bottom edge of the flap. These are to hold the bunk curtain when bunk is extended or the rain flap when top is down and bunk folded.

Channel iron or angle iron braces are used to support the bunks when open. Make three for each side bending each end of the brace as shown and cutting off the flange where the iron fits into the bracket. Six strap iron brackets are needed for each bunk; three being attached to the underside of the shelf and three to the lower body moulding. Bolt or rivet them in place.

Now for the roof. Your first consideration in making the roof is to lay out the two frames (see Fig. 15), which are of 2" x 2" spruce. The inner frame stands about 8 inches above the lower and is attached to it by means of channel iron ribs which are spaced 24" apart.

These ribs should be bent on a radius of 8 inches as shown. The easiest way to accomplish this is to heat the iron red hot, clamp it at one end and bend it over a form with a sledge hammer, bending slowly. Of somewhat larger width and of angle iron, the corner pieces are bent and crimped to provide smoothly curved supports at each of the four corners of the roof. For the slats, use straight grain pine, 1 5/8" wide by 5/16" thick, to run lengthwise of the trailer top. As shown in Fig. 16., the ribs are run through the top frame members so that slats are flush with this frame when bolted in place. Use stove bolts to attach the slats.

A skylight frame is shown but is not essential as the
slats themselves are sufficient edging at this point.
Now attach the upper pipes to the outer roof frame and raise in position. This is your final checkup before putting on the canvas and it is at this time that you mark off the upper pipes and drill the additional holes mentioned previously.