Each of these is laminated from eight thin strips of redwood; the only stuff I could find clear enough to bend without breaking. Fur accurate bends. you'll need to make a laminating jig, the accompanying drawings show you how. The plywood and 2 by 4s that make up the jig are later used as parts in the camper's rear wall and front overhang.

For my truck, a '69 Ford, the outside rib radius is 39-in.; you may have to modify the jig for your truck. To determine the inside radius, subtract the thickness of a rib from the outside radius. In my case, the eight rib plies added up to a total thickness of about 2-in. This made my inside radius 37-in., so I cut the inside jig forms to that radius.

Before you laminate a rib, smear some paste wax onto the jig. The wax acts as a parting medium so you can remove the ribs easily once the glue dries. Brush glue onto the rib plies, leaving the two outside faces bare, and place the plies on the jig. Starting from the center of the curve and working out in both directions, clamp the outer forms in place.

While you're waiting for the glue to dry, work on the sill assembly and the front and back walls. Before you start framing, though, you'll need to know your window sizes. I used ordinary storm windows in the door and the wall behind the cab. Side and front windows are 6-in x 14-in. trailer units made by If Hehr Mfg. Get them at a trailer parts store. While you're there, pick up a 9-in. x 9-in. roof vent with screen.

Place the sill assembly on a pair of horses, or on the truck bed. Fasten the rear wall to the sill and attach some temporary bracing to hold the parts at right angles. Attach the ribs at proper intervals, running screws up through the sills into the blocking between the gussets.

Run a tape measure from the bottom of a sill up along each rib and mark the ribs at 48-in., 98-in., and 144-in. Attach the purlins at these points, making sure the blocking is centered on the marks. Now plane the blocking flush with the ribs and install the framing for roof vent and windows.

At this point, set all nails, and spackle all nail and screw holes. Sand everything that needs smoothing. and seal the framework inside and out with shellac. If you want to leave the ribs natural, varnish them. Then paint everything else but the outside of the slanting nosepiece. This will be glassed later, as bare wood gives better adhesion.

Be sure to use plywood paneling, not the type made from hardboard. Apply a thin ribbon of panel adhesive to the tops of the ribs, the edge of the sill, and the edge of the blocking. With the good side in, start a sheet of paneling at the sill. I used ring-shank drywall nails at the sill and rear wall, and anodized Ardox spiral nails into the ribs.

Now move on to the second panel, cutting it out to fit around the roof-vent framing. Apply the third panel, and finally rip the fourth panel to size (about 15-in. wide) and nail it in place.

Glue and bolt the overhang onto the front rib, using the stove bolts from the rib jig. With a rasp, fair the edge of the curved slanting portion of the nosepiece to the proper angle to receive the paneling. The leftover portion of the fourth panel provides more than enough material to cover the sides of the overhang.

Adding the "Flower Power"

This is pretty much standard boat-glassing procedure. The only difference is the decorative cotton duck that goes on before the fiberglass cloth.

After glassing, cut out the window openings. If you use power tools, keep in mind the fact that fiberglass dust is highly abrasive to motor bearings, not to mention your lungs. Be sure to wear adequate breathing protection. Now you can set in all the windows and the roof vent.

Trim around the bottom of the back wall where the wall fits inside the truck box with 1-in. aluminum angle. This will prevent splintering when mounting and unmounting the camper. I trimmed all exterior edges with aluminum molding, the kind with a plastic-bumper insert. It cost me 22 cents a foot at a camper parts store.

Before installing the camper on your truck, stick plastic-foam seal under the sills where they contact the box. You may need a double layer in some places if your truck box isn't perfectly level around the top.

When the camper is in position on the box, hold it in place with C clamps and drill eight evenly spaced 3/8-in. holes down through the sills and lip of the truck box (four on each side). Slip drilled scrap blocks under the truck-box lip to prevent metal distortion, and bolt the camper in place with 3/8-in. bolts. Seal the rear wall of the camper inside the truck box with furnace-duct tape.

Although Michigan law doesn't require clearance lights on a truck under 80-in. wide, I added several as aids in maneuvering around unimproved campsites in the dark. Check the requirements in your state before you hit the road.