And that's not all. Millions of vacation hungry Americans are also getting under way - making plans, charting routes, readying equipment.

In case you've forgotten what it's like, vacationing by car takes more than an unlimited gas supply. But the Wanderbug trailer, shown here, has what it takes - light weight, road appeal, plenty of sleeping and storage space, and all the fixings for a month away from sidewalks and shops.

You can't buy the Wanderbug, but you can build it from scratch at surprisingly low cost. Start work now for a happy summer on the road.

You can get some of these things just by tying a kiddy car to the rear bumper, but you'd still be missing a good bet, for this trailer is no toy. It sleeps two adults and has plenty of room for two children on the floor, not to mention storage space for the family's needs.

Measuring 10 feet in length and 6 1/2 feet in width, it allows full headroom for a six footer with shoes on. You can get some idea of what it's like from the pictures on these pages; for a still better view of the finished job, see the color photos by Frank Lindgren, Jr.

Cost is bound to be a major factor in any project of this size, but no close approximation can be given because many of the parts will vary according to availability, regional price differences, and quality. Reasonable estimates of the total coat run from about $200 to $450.

Hand tools are all you really need, but of course power tools will help a great deal. First, clear a space on the ground and lay out the frame as shown in a drawing below. Smear all joints liberally with waterproof glue, make sure crosspieces are square with the stringers, and bolt the pieces together with carriage bolts and lag screws; the side members will have to be counter bored for the lag screws.

As shown in the drawing, the forward crosspiece between the wheel openings is centered exactly 4 feet from the front edge. Place a sheet of 3/8 inch by 4 foot by 8 foot waterproof plywood sideways across this portion of the frame, saw off 18 inches from the length, and secure the plywood with glue and drive screws. Trim another piece to cover the remainder, fasten it down, and saw out the wheel openings.

Part I covered the construction of the chassis, walls, end chines. The next step is to stud the sides with 3/4 inch by 1 1/4" strips of pine, spruce, or hardwood. Locate the studs as shown in Fig. 8, and in the drawings on the facing page, using such fixed positions as floor edge (Fig. 9), door, and window openings as guides. Fasten all studs with glue and collared screws, and place those on the second wall exactly opposite the corresponding members on the first (Fig. 10).

Mounting the walls to the frame is a job that may require some help from the neighbors. Glue and screw the right wall to the sideboard cabinet over the wheel, and use whatever temporary bracing may be needed to keep the sides perpendicular to the floor. When the location of cross ribs is decided upon, square them across and notch them into the chines.

A sheet of 3/8 inch plywood 3 feet wide, fitted across the front and flush against the sides, forms the front of the galley. Fasten it securely to the forward door stud, and to the corresponding stud on the other side. Allow the top of the galley to overlap about 6 inches into the closet area to provide a shelf for the water tank. Before fastening the top, build a frame of the 3/4 inch by 1 1/4 inch stripping to help support the sink. The stove may be treated in the same manner, or it may be let in slightly below the surface (Fig. 11). In the latter case, with a keyhole saw cut the plywood very carefully, and use the cut-out portion as a cover.

Space two ribs across the highest portion of the wails to carry the ventilator you plan to use. Then rib the remainder of the top and ends at approximately 12 inch centers (Fig. 12). Ribs should be closest at points of greatest bend.

If your friends and family are still gleefully watching you work, call them into service for the next operation. First bevel off the lower edge of the front frame two-by-four. On a stiff cardboard pattern, cut tight notches around the tongue arms, and transfer the pattern to a sheet of 3/16 inch by 4 foot by 6 foot 8 inch plywood. Gum is preferable to the fir panel for this use, since it shows less tendency to raise and weather under strain.

A similar procedure can be followed with the rear wall, which reaches the middle of the window base rib. Any remaining gaps on the underside or around the tongue can be patched with sheet aluminum.

For the roof and the remainder of the front and rear walls, use 1/4 inch by 4 inch spruce planks. Fit them smoothly along the ribs (Fig. 15), and secure them with 5/8 inch screws. Round off the exposed chine corners so that they will not tear the fabric roofing.