After 7,000 miles and exposure to desert sun and coastal rain, Li'l Guy's Fiberglas plastic finish and plywood body show absolutely no signs of deterioration. Every joint is fastened with Weldwood glue and galvanized screws or bolts, except the cupboard frame, where glue and finishing nails were used. Clearance and pilot holes were drilled for every screw to prevent splitting.

Ample sleeping quarters are provided by a 46-in. box spring, with extra pad. The base lifts easily for access to the storage space beneath. A pair of folding "beach-back" rests convert the bed into a divan when necessary. Our on-the-road table is a pair of large trays which I found more practical than the originally planned dropleaf table hinged to the wardrobe door.

Divided plastic plates, egg and food containers, aluminum utensils, card table, folding camp stools and beach chairs comprise our furniture.

Set the floor in place and with a pencil outline the trailer frame and locate the six holes for fastening the floor to the trailer. For proper balance the wheel axles should be approximately 33 to 36 in. from the back end of the house body. If your trailer frame is too long, shorten it to fit. Turn the floor over and glue a 2-in, batten under the floor joint. Note that this piece rests between the cross members of the trailer frame.

Lay out the dropped floor area. Bore 5/8-in. holes at diagonal corners, and cut out the section with a keyhole saw. Smooth edges with plane or sanding block. Cut 6-in. strips for the sides and ends from the 1/2-in. scrap. These go around underneath the floor opening to form a box.

Attach 3/4 x 1 1/4-in. strips all around the top of the box with 1 1/2-in. screws and bolt to the floor with 2 1/2-in. No. 10 flathead machine screws. Use 1/4-in. drill. Turn floor over and bolt to trailer.

Lay out and cut the curves of the body sides from 1/4-in. plywood as indicated in the sketch on page 107. Use the first side as a template for the second.

Scribe an inch-wide strip around the curve of the scrap pieces. Move the pieces down onto the sides so the scribed line is just at the edge of the curve. Fasten with a few screws then cut around the line, using the curve of the side as a guide. These 1-in. strips reinforce the edges and facilitate attachment of the ribs.

From one 1/4-in piece of scrap siding cut four 2-in. x 8-ft. battens. Clamp them together and bore two rows of 1/8-in. holes 4 in. apart and 1/2 in. each side of center. Round the edges on one side of each with a sanding block, and put two aside. Lay the left-side sections together and join them with one batten along the outside and 1/2-in. No. 4 screws.

With some assistance glue and set one side in place, resting it on the blocks. Bore pilot holes into the under-frame through those in the side. With a few 1-in. No. 7 screws the side will stand alone. Be sure it is true and finish fastening it. Repeat with the other side.

As the top ribs are located glue the ends and drive an 8-penny finishing nail into the center of each end. At each rib, bore a hole through the side and a 3/16-in. pilot hole into the rib 1/8 in. each side of the nail and drive in two 2 1/2-in. No. 9 screws.

Fit the 1/4 x 1-in. curved reinforcing strips along the edges of the sides between ribs. Bore 1/8-in. holes through them and fasten with 1/2-in. No. 4 screws.

Now for the top. Cut four 6 ft. 4 1/2 in. pieces from 4-ft. x 8-ft. sheets. Bore 1/8-holes 1/4 in. from the ends of all four pieces. On one piece place temporary cleats 4 in. from one edge, draw a line and bore for No. 7 screws as you did the sides. Bore two rows of 1/8-in. holes every 4 in. along the upper edge, one row 1/4 in., the other 1/2 in. from the edge, alternated so they are 2 in. apart to prevent splitting the ribs. Sides of the other pieces are bored the same way.

Set the first sheet in place at the rear of the trailer. Be sure the edges are flush with those of both sides. Apply some glue and set the No. 7 screws in the under-frame. Glue the ribs and side edges also.

Bore 1/16-in. pilot holes for all edge and rib screws and use 5/8-in. No. 4 screws. Insert them every 6 in. along intermediate ribs. Draw the edges down tight along sides and ribs. Work forward to complete the roof. There will be a space left below the No. 8 rib. Fill with 1/8-in. scrap plywood. Put the inside battens over the joints in the side sections.

Install the door frame and rear wardrobe uprights. Use one of the windows and the ventilator as patterns and make frames for them from 1x2-in. stock. Use 8-penny finishing nails and glue on corners. Locate the frames on the inside walls, scribe the perimeters and cut the openings.

The bed frame is next. Fasten it to sides and rear with No. 7 screws and glue. Cut an 8-in. x 6-ft. 4-in. piece of 3/4-in. plywood and enclose the front of the bed frame, using No. 7 screws. The protruding 1 in. holds mattress in place.

Thin two quarts of plastic with a pint of acetone, and work it into the cloth thoroughly. Apply a coat to the sides and door. Roll the trailer into the hot sun. Turn it about as each area hardens. Apply two more unthinned coats to the top, three to the sides and door. Sand the final coat, apply a coat of flat primer and two coats of auto enamel.

Wire the trailer with rubber-covered lamp cord, using insulated staples and special trailer lighting fixtures. Solder and tape all joints. Instead of the usual entrance receptacle I use a regular plug, hanging beneath the trailer. A canvas bag keeps it clean. I carry a 25-ft. extension cord for camps where 115-volt current is available. For camping I have 6-volt 25-watt lamps and a 10-ft. cord. Small battery clips on the cord engage a direct wire from the battery and the car frame, completing the circuit.

When the trailer body is to be removed occasionally keep all wiring in the clear except the ground. Do not ground the 115-volt circuit. The trailer tongue may be shortened If desired, but where a large boat is carried the long tongue is best.