The narrowest locks on British Waterways will take a boat of 6 ft. beam, so this was adopted for the cruiser.
As the boat was to be towed behind a small family car, careful consideration had to be given to the ease of loading and unloading from the trailer as well as the capability of the car to tow the vessel. It was estimated that the finished boat without the various living impedimenta and outboard motor would weigh about 6 cwt.

A cabin was required for sleeping and in which to eat, and this has a top on which sunbathers can recline. The design shows the cabin extending back to Frame 4, the cooking and toilet arrangements being restricted to the open well. By simple modification, the cabin could be extended another section aft and the cooking arrangements and as small toilet built into the additional section of cab.

Another arrangement would he to have small cabins fore and aft, separated amidships by a small open well.

As the boat was likely to be moved about ashore so frequently it seemed better not to have the exterior encumbrances in the form of a propeller and rudder necessary with an inboard motor. The inboard motor, too, takes up valuable floor space. The obvious choice of motive power was therefore the outboard motor.

This cruiser is a "displacement" type boat, i.e. it passes through the water and not over the surface as would a speedboat. Because of this important fact the boat has a basic maximum speed no matter what engine is used. The marine engineer provides a simple formula which enables the maximum speed of a displacement-type hull, such as this, to be determined.

The maximum speed in knots is equal to the square root of the length of waterline, multiplied by 1.5.

Thus, as this craft is about 15 ft. waterline the maximum speed will be square route of 15 x 1.5, or 5.8 knots.
Size of engine, then, is not of primary importance. The power thrust imparted by the propeller is important and is closely bound up with engine design, reduction gears and design of the propeller itself. Bear in mind that a larger capacity engine running at a small throttle opening will give a quieter and more economical cruising performance than a small capacity engine running at full throttle. For cruising on inland waterways, an engine such as the British Seagull Century, Anzani Super Single or other manufacturers' engines of similar rating can be recommended.

A side elevation and half plan of the cruiser are shown in Fig. 3. These views give the principal dimensions of the hull and show the disposition of the frames, battens, carlins, etc.

Materials Used

Whilst a list is given of the ideal timber to use for the various parts of the boat, it is quite permissible for the constructor to use other timber if he wishes. For example, in place of mahogany one might use the cheaper timber Parana pine.

The stem, keel, hog and Frames should be of mahogany. The chines, gunwales and stringers are of spruce. For the hull topsides and bottom sides, mahogany plywood 5/16 in. thickness to B.S.S. IO88 specification should be used. This plywood is particularly suitable for marine use as it is extremely resistant to the effects of prolonged contact with water.

For the floors ordinary deal flooring, 1 in. x 6 in., may be used or alternatively Parana pine. This latter timber can be used for most of the interior fitments.

The decks, cabin sides and roof are made from 1/4 in. plywood to the B.S.S. IO88 specification.

The frames are glued and bolted together, using 2 in. x 1/4 in. galvanized gutter bolts, with nuts and washers. For the glued work in the boat, one of the well-known waterproof glues such as Aerolite must be used. The skin is glued and screwed in place with 3/4 in. x No. 6 brass countersunk head screws. Some boat builders economize by using galvanized steel screws instead of brass.

The Stem

From the diagrams it will be apparent that there are seven frames (including the transom) and a stem to support the skin of the boat. These items should be made first of all.

Details of the stem are shown in Figs. 2 and 4 and the timber to use is mahogany, 3 1/2 in. x 2 1/2 in. finished sizes after planing. The block used to bolt the two pieces together is cut from a piece of timber about 2 ft. in length and 6 in. wide and finished to 2 1/2 in. thickness.

When the frame is correctly assembled and bolted together, it may be taken apart and glue applied to the joints. The whole assembly is then bolted together again and finally placed in position on the full-scale plan to check for accurate reassembly.

The tie beams or stretchers at the upper or deck end of the side futtocks are only temporary, and at a later stage of construction, when the cabin is constructed, these pieces are removed. Therefore, almost any odd pieces of timber about 3 in. x 1 in. section can be used. If only new timber is available then of course these pieces maybe used for interior fitments of the cabin later on.

As each frame is glued together it is important to wipe away every trace of surplus glue with a damp cloth. This resin glue sets glass hard and will ruin the edges of cutting tools if it has to be planed away.

Whilst the frames are resting on the full-size plan it is advisable to mark in quite clearly the position of the sheer batten on the side futtocks.

It should be noted that the frames Nos. 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7 will have to have the outer edges of the side futtocks beveled away to correspond with the curve of the chine and sheer battens. Frames 1 and 2 are particularly sharply beveled and it is helpful to take off a good deal of this bevel before assembling the frames on the building form. Final truing of these bevels can only be done when all the frames are assembled in place.

There are four, bottom-side panels and four top-side panels and these are out from sheets of marine plywood 8 ft. X 4 ft. The cutoffs left over from these panels are used to make the seat tops, etc. at a later stage of construction.

It is advisable to commence with the fitting of one of the forward panels even though these are the most difficult to fix. Large sheets of brown paper are glued together to give enough area to cover one panel. The outline of the required shape is obtained by placing the paper over the frames and rubbing the thumb along the edge of the chine to the stem, up the forward edge of the bevel on the stem, and then along the join between the keel and the keelson to frame 3 and down the edge of that frame.

The shape of the panel may then be cut out, but leaving an additional 1 1/2 in. beyond the chine line to allow for the subsequent fitting of the top-side panel to this panel.

Note that this bottom side front panel ends at the third frame and provision must be made to strengthen this butt joint with the aft bottom-side panel. To provide extra bearing for this glued joint, additional strips of 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. timber can be glued and screwed to the bottom futtock of the frame.

Alternatively, a 3 in. strip of the panel plywood can he let in flush into the keelson, chine and bottom stringer thus providing a good bearing for the butt joint of the panels when glued and screwed into position.

First of all, cramp the stern end of the panel into place at Frame 3 using G-cramps at the keelson and chine. Bend the panel down into position and cramp where possible.

If the builder feels that undue pressure is needed to hold the panel down in place at the stem, the plywood can be made more pliable by the application of rags dipped in boiling water and applied to the outside surface of the plywood. If the timber is thus wetted it must be cramped in place and allowed to dry until next day before being glued in place.
When the cramps are removed, the plywood will have taken on a permanent curve to the shape required so that little force is then needed to glue into place.

It is important to get a good fit up to the edge of the keel and a bevel most be planed along the edge of the plywood for this purpose. A small lap-over at the stem can later be planed away when the cutwater is fixed. Keep the lap-over at the chine for the purpose of making the notched joint to the top-side panel as in Fig. 13.

When one is satisfied that there is a good fit, mark with a pencil round on the underside of the panel the shapes of the frames, the keelson, the stem, etc., and then remove the panel for drilling for the seeming screws. The screw holes are drilled with a 9/64 in. drill and are spaced 3 in. apart. Between frame and the stem and along the stem these holes should be close to t 1 1/2 in. centers. To speed up this work an electric drill is indispensable. The holes should also be countersunk so that the heeds of the 3/4 in. X No. 6 brass counter-sunk head screws will be below the surface. Subsequently, the holes are stopped.

When all is ready for the final application of the panel, prepare the Aerolite 300 glue, which, being waterproof, is an ideal adhesive for all boat building work. Full instructions for the use of this glue are given with every pack.

The glue is first of all applied liberally to all bearing surfaces of the chine, stem, keelson and frame, etc. The hardener is applied to the areas within the pencil marked outlines on the inside of the plywood panel.

Place the panel in position and first of all hold by one or two screws at widely spaced intervals to ascertain that it is correctly positioned. When all is well, proceed to screw down all round the panel. When the screwing is completed wipe away all surplus glue which may have oozed out of the joints.

The other forward bottom-side panel is fitted next, but it must not be assumed that it is exactly the same pattern as the previous panel and it may be necessary to make a new paper pattern.

When the first and has been fitted the permanent fixing of the keel should no longer be delayed. It should be liberally glued and then screwed into place with some 2 in. x No. 10 to galvanized steel screws. Note the termination of the keel in Fig. 11 as overlapping by 1 in. the joint between the two parts of the stem.

When the glue has dried out on all four panels the edges of the panels may now be trimmed up flush with the chine battens and the frame of the transom. One important point must be made. From the stem of the first frame the forward bottom-side panels are not trimmed flush but are left overhanging as shown in Fig. 12. Thus, the joint between the top-side panels and the bottom-side panels is shown in Fig. 14 for the two positions, fore and aft of frame 1.

Securing the Top-side Panels

The next task is the fitting and fixing of the top-side panels. Commence with the forward panels. It is possible to dispense with the use of a paper pattern for this work. Hold the plywood in place against the side of the boat with a pair of G-cramps and mark the position of the notched joint already mentioned.

Saw out the piece required to make a recess for the bottom-side panel and bevel this so that the new edge of the panel will fit snugly against the bottom-side panel overhang. Aft of the notched joint allow a small overlap at the chine for trimming up later. Allow also a small overlap at the stem and along the sheer for subsequent cleaning up.

The join between the fore and aft top-side panels is arranged between frames 3 and 4. As seating for this join, filler pieces of wood 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. are let in between the battens and another piece is screwed on the inside of the battens to which also the filler pieces are glued and screwed.

The Transom Panel

The last part of the skin of the boat is the 2/3 in. plywood transom panel. This panel is cut to shape approximately and with a liberal application of glue it is then screwed in position. The screws to use are 1 1/2 in. x No. 8 countersunk head brass. Often the transom is not painted in the same way as the rest of the hull but is left in natural color and varnished. If this is done then the heads of the screws are not deeply countersunk but only sufficient to let the heads be pulled in flush with the surface of the transom. No stopping is used. To comply with the best marine practice be sure that all slots in the screw heads are all pointing in the same direction.

The False Stem or Cutwater

From the end of the keel the edges of the plywood skin are planed down flush with the stern. A false stern or cutwater is now fitted to cover the stem and these edges.

As the cutwater may come in for some hard knocks when the boat is in use it is helpful to be able to renew this pad without difficulty. Hence, it is not glued in place, but instead a sealing layer of Seelastic is used and the cutwater is screwed in place with same 2 in. x No. 10 countersunk head galvanized steel screws. Some holes are drilled with a 3/8 in. twist bit to let the screws into the false stem. These holes may be stopped afterwards with dowel rod plugs or other forms of stopping.

Between the lower end of the false stem and the end of the keel is a small space which has now to be filled with a small filler piece, which is worked to the curve of the keelson and to be a snug fit between the keel and the cutwater. It is finally glued and screwed in place with two screws.

It is advisable to leave the filler piece and the lower end of the cutwater a little full, in order that they may be worked up to the final shape when they have been secured in place with their screws (Fig. 15).

The Rubbing Strips

A rubbing strip (Fig. l6) is fitted along the chines and is made from some 1 1/2 in. half-round molding. These strips serve a double purpose because they also serve to seal the joins of the top-side and bottom-side panels. A sealer such as Seelastic is applied under the strips before they are screwed in place. Well countersink the heads of the screws and fill the holes.

To seal the forward part of the panel abutments forward of the point where the notch joint is made in the panels, a shorter strip of molding may be applied here and not carried right aft.

Additional rubbing strips are screwed to the bottom sides of the cruiser along the line of the battens between chines and keel (Fig. 16).

Guard rails are also required reaching from the transom to frame 5, as this part of the hull is very vulnerable in locks and at moorings. The rail is 26 in. in length, 3 in. at the transom and tapering down to 1 in. at the other extremity. The rails are screwed well to the transom and fames 5 and 6.

Last Stages Before Turning Over

The boat is now ready for turning over (Fig. 16) except for the final finishing off of all surfaces with various grades of glasspaper. All screw holes should be stopped with Plastic wood or marine stopping. If the head of a screw seems at all near to the surface take it out and
re-countersink the hole.

The fitting of the floorboards should be the next task, starting with the floor of the cockpit. The flooring is made from 1 in. x 6 in. floorboards, planed all round. Alternatively, 1/2 in. exterior grade plywood could be used.

The floor must rest on three filler pieces of 3/4 in. timber cut and secured as shown in Fig. 18. These filler pieces are fitted to frames 4, 5 and 6 and a support of 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. is screwed across the transom, and will need to be in several pieces to fit round the knees.

THE height of the supports must be lined up so that the floorboards do not rock, and this might be tested with a straight-edge of one of the floorboards. Note the outside board on each side will have to be shaped to fit the curvature of the hull.

Access is often wanted to the bottom of the boat so that it is advisable to make the center three boards joined together with an odd piece of batten at each end and in the center. The outer boards can be screwed down with some 1 1/2 in. brass screws. Do not cramp up the boards tightly against one another. Instead, leave a gap which can be gauged the same for each board by using a spacer cardboard when screwing down.

Before finally screwing down the floorboards it is advisable to paint the underside of the boards and the bottom or bilges of the boat. For the latter surfaces which are almost always wet or damp a bitumastic paint might be thought more suitable than the customary oil paint. This should be applied up to the chine batten; above this point oil paint should be used. Be sure to clean out the bottom of the boat before painting, a vacuum cleaner will be most useful in removing sawdust from crevices.

This floor is composed of four pieces of 1 in. x 6 in. flooring. As it need be only a little over 20 in. wide it can be fitted directly upon the 20 in. frame stretcher. Thus, the floor level will be lower than that of the cockpit. This is helpful in providing more cabin head room.
In order to accommodate the full width of the floor it may be necessary to cut small notches in frames 2 and 3 (Fig. 19).

At Frame 1 the two outside boards will have to be tapered in to about half their width at their extreme forward ends. The two outer planks can be screwed down in position after painting, but the two center planks should be battened together and made to lift out to give access to the bilge, as with the cockpit boards.

Side Deck Carlins

The carlins for the side decks are next to be considered and these are supported by knees secured to the top ends of the frame members. It is now necessary to consider the removal of the stretchers across the ends of the frame members as these should have been left in place during the work on the floor. In order that there may be no likelihood of the gunwale losing its shape during the fitting of the carlins temporary stretchers may now be bolted across the frame members about 6 in. below the gunwales which will not be so much in the way as those at the extreme ends of the frame members. Thus, remove one stretcher at a time and shorten as necessary and bolt on lower down.

The knees slope upwards towards the center of the boat and this slope should correspond with the slope on the top edges of the transom, i.e. there is a rise of 3 in. on the center line. It is advisable to start with frame 6 and check the slope with a straight-edge as well as sighting from the transom line. Thereafter, the slopes at the other frames may be all done by sighting from the stern, securing with one nut and bolt and tapping up or down as required to get the correct slope and then drilling the other bolt hole and securing. No knees are required for frame 1.

Cutting the Knees to Length

Before attending to this operation be sure that the boat is level across its width by placing a straight-edge across from gunwale to gunwale and resting a spirit level on it. Wedge up the chines until dead level is indicated.

Two housings will have to be sawn in the transom for the extreme ends of the carlins. These will need to be about 3/8 in. in depth. The carlins can now be screwed into place with brass screws.

The Shelf

Two similar members to the carlins are fitted underneath the knees to the side members of the frames (Fig. 20). The object of the shelf is to give support to the knees as well as to generally stiffen up the gunwales of the boat. Remember that the side decks have to take the weight of the crew scrambling alongside, and, of course, the knees take the weight of the cabin as well as any passenger who might be reclining on the roof.

These members are notched into the frame for 1/4 in., and are then securely screwed in position with 1 1/2 in. x No. 8 brass screws.

The Fore Deck

The fore deck is supported by two deck beams and the breast hook, details of which are given in Figs. 22 and 23. As these beams are called upon to bear a fair amount of weight they may be notched into the sheer battens. They are then screwed into position from outside the boat with some 2 in. x No. 10 galvanized screws well countersunk in the plywood skin. The top curvatures of these members should be the same.

The central deck batten is housed into the main deck beam and the secondary beam. A small housing may be necessary in the breast hook to take this batten. Two smaller deck battens are also fixed across the two deck beams.

At this stage one must bear in mind the requirements of a strong point at which to fix the mooring cleats at a later time, and it is better to do this before the deck coveting in fixed. These filler pieces are shown in Figs. 2 and 23, and should be of some 1 1/4 in., or 1 1/2 in. thick Parana pine or oak. They should be carefully fitted to all four members to which they are attached.

Finally, the filler pieces are glued and screwed in position. Any slight protrusions above the level of the beams can be removed with a smoothing plane.

This completes the fore deck except for covering which operation (Fig. 24) is better left for the time being whilst attention is now given to the construction of the cabin framework.

The cockpit is lined on the inside of the carlins by the coamings (Figs. 20 and 24). These members are made from timber 5 3/4 in, x 3/4 in. If they are to be painted at a later stage, they can well be made of Parana pine. On the other hand, mahogany coamings look very fine and are best left natural color and varnished. This arrangement would look well with a natural mahogany transom. The coamings are screwed to the ends of the knees and the carlin. They reach from the transom, into which they are housed, about 1/4 in. and end at frame 4.

It is of interest to note in passing that at this stage the boat could very rapidly be completed for use as an open run-about. The fore deck and side decks could be finished and coaming run the full length from frame 1 to the transom. Some cross seats could be improvised and the boat is ready for painting. It is possible for the constructor to use the boat like this and to convert it later to the full cabin cruiser design with very little trouble.

At frames 3 and 2 vertical members are secured to the knees and carlin and sloping in at the same angle as those of frame 4 (Figs 26 and 27). This can be judged by sighting from the cockpit along the edges of the bulkhead. These members are 1 3/4 in. 3/4 in. and the vertical length is better left a little full at first. The roof beams should be clamped to their top ends and adjusted into position by sighting along the top of the cabin beams.

The curvature of all the roof beams should be the same. Consequently, when the curve has been set out on the bulkhead beam the other beams can be marked out from this one.

Another point of importance concerning the vertical members at frames 3, 2 and windscreen position is that they should also be parallel to the bulkhead frame when viewed from the sides of the boat. That is to say they should all be parallel to one another.

The vertical member at the windscreen position is screwed only to the carlin, which is perhaps a weakness, consequently a strengthening piece of 1 1/4 in. x 3/4/ in. fixed across from the carlin to the sheer batten at this point to give additional support.

The sloping windscreen side members do not rest upon the carlin (Figs. 29 and 31), but upon a 9 in. piece of carlin timber screwed against the carlin. For the time being do not proceed with the windscreen.

Check the alignment of the roof beams and then scribe their positions on the side members at frames 2, 3 and 4 and cut out a notch upon which the beams can rest (Fig. 28). Screw the beams into position.

The two cabin roof carlins should now be fitted. At first cramp a light piece of timber (1 1/2 in. x 1/2 in.) along the ends of the beams to get the slope required to the top ends of the vertical members. Then trim off these waste pieces.

Now mark and cut notches in the ends of the deck beams to take the carlins, 1 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. These carlins are screwed into the ends of the beams. The forward ends of the carlins will mark the height and slope of the top ends of the forward side supports. Saw off waste and screw the carlins into the top of the supports.

The windscreen (Fig. 31) can now be completed by screwing the sloping members in position and then fitting the top rail with a curvature to correspond with that of the other deck beams. All this work may be done with neatly made butt joints provided they are well glued with Aerolite glue and screwed up tightly. It is important to keep an eye on any likely points at which rain may penetrate and to be sure that they are well sealed with either glue or Seelastic.

The roof has five battens. The central one is 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. and the others are 1 1 /4 in. x 3/4 in. The central one is wider to make a good jointing surface for the two pieces of plywood with which the roof is covered.

These battens are notched into the roof beams and screwed into position (Fig. 26).

Now fairing off the roof members can be undertaken with a smoothing plane. Make sure all screw heads are well counter-sunk to save any damage to the plane blade.

Applied to the side-deck carlins in between the vertical members of the cabin framework are some pieces of 2 in. x 5/16 in. thickness plywood. These pieces form a ledge against which the lower edges of the side panels of the cabin can be screwed. They also provide a bearing surface upon which to put the Seelastic sealing compound.

The Side Decks

The upper structure of the cruiser is now ready for covering in with 1/4 in. thick plywood. The layout of the various panels is given in Fig. 32, but it is to be noted that these sizes are only approximate.

Commence by fitting the fore-deck (Fig. 31) which consists of two triangular panels. The top of the stem should be trimmed away flush with the sheer battens. The top of the false stem may be left for the time being and later it may be rounded or shaped to suit the constructor. It is essential to get a good fit of the foredeck against the lower windscreen rail. It is helpful if the panels are held in place with just one or two screws at first to ensure a good fit before using sealing compound.

Each side-deck comprises two panels. The shorter forward pair of pieces must butt neatly against the ends of the foredeck and against the carlin filler pieces. The aft ends of these panels reach to frame 3. In order to provide a wider bearing surface at this point for the joint of the two panels it is advisable to screw on extra bearer to the knees at frame 3 as well as at frame 1.

The two stern-side deck panels butt against the forward two and against the cockpit coamings. Trim off any overhang at the transom and along the gunwale line. The outer edge of the side-deck panels can finally be sealed over with a length of 1 1/2 in. half-round moulding screwed and sealed from bow to transom.

Roughly trim these panels to size and mark in lightly any members of the cabin framework and then give consideration to the arrangement of the openings for the windows.

These windows are of 1/8 in. Perspex and are held in place with rubber moldings similar to those used for car van windows. It is necessary to get the correct molding for the thicknesses of materials being used. A typical cross section of rubber molding is shown in Fig. 35. Remember to avoid sharp curves in window openings when using such moldings as it is difficult to fit them to very sharp curves. A minimum curve of 2 1/2 in. radius is suggested.

Another reason for such an opening window is that it provides an emergency exit forward should the cabin door get jammed or in the case of fire in the after well. A grim thought but at least one for which it is as well to make provision. Needless to say, one or two small car-type fire extinguishers should form a part of the gear in the boat when it is in use.

Assuming then that a fixed windscreen panel is to be used, fit it in place nuking a good fit against the fore-deck on the bottom edge. Trim off level at the roof beam and the side uprights.

Fit next the two bulkhead panels. A small filler piece will be needed over the top of the door. In addition, at that point, it is advisable to fit a strip which will protrude over the top of the door to keep rain from running in (Fig. 33).

The side panels are now fitted. They must make a good fit against the side decks. Final trimming off of the two ends may he delayed until the panels are screwed in place. Sealing compound is used again under all surfaces which butt together to give a water-tight joint. The rear ends of these panels most be left overhanging about an inch in order to screw against a jointing strip of 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. to which is also screwed the side screen of the cockpit (Fig. 35).

A length of 3/4 in. quarter round molding is screwed and sealed along the side decks against the cabin sides, the coaming and the windscreen. This sealing strip must be put on very carefully and sealed so that there is no possible chance of water penetrating below decks in the worst of weather. This is the most vulnerable point for leaks in any craft, such as this.

The Grab Rails

These are essential fitments for the roof of the cabin. They are to provide hand holds when walking along the side decks and are useful to prevent such articles as mops and boat hooks from rolling off the roof of the cabin.

The rails (Fig. 34) are in two parts and are of 1 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. material, neatly rounded to be comfortable to hold, screwed to the cabin roof battens with a spacer or similar material.

The Cabin Door

The cabin door (Fig. 36). is made of two 10 in. wide doors which are arranged to fold in half and thus take up less room in the cockpit when opened.

Brass backflap hinges are used. They are better than butt hinges as they may be laid flat on the frames and thus give a wider bearing surface.

A small bolt top and bottom on the inside of one half of the door will secure it, and a handle and lock of a suitable kind on be fixed to the other half of the door.

Cabin Seats

The interior of the cabin can be fitted up to any requirements of the reader. In the present design the author kept a parallel gangway of 20 in. width down the center of the cabin. This makes the seats taper off at the bow, but nevertheless wide enough to sit on. See Figs. 25, 26 and 27.

Supports for the seats are of 1 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. timber and the seat tops can be offcuts from the panels used for the skin of the boat. These will have to be shaped to the curvature of the boat and slots cut to fit around the frame members. To provide more bed space it may be necessary to carry pieces of plywood to fit across from one side to the other of the gangway. The seats can be covered with foam rubber cushions which are excellent in that they do not retain moisture in the same way as other types of mattresses.

Rubbing Strips at Stern

These were shown in Fig.1 at the beginning of the series and are necessary to protect the side of the boat at moorings, in locks, etc. They are made from pieces of timber 4 ft. x 1 1/4 in. x 3 in. The width of the timber tapers to 1 in. at the forward ends. The strips are strongly screwed into position at the transom and frames 5 and 6.

Finishing

The final finishing of the craft can be to the constructor's own taste. Preliminary work is the same whatever finish is desired. All woodwork must be well glasspapered down with various grades of paper. Three thin coats of pink primer should be applied with a light rubbing down between each coat. All holes should be filled and smoothed off level. Two coats of undercoat should next be applied with a final coat of top coat.

If mahogany timber is to be left in natural color, the preliminary coats should be of yacht varnish well thinned down with turpentine and lightly glasspapered between coats. The final finish can be of two coats of varnish at full strength.

Mooring Cleats

Some provision must be made to moor the cruiser and four brass or galvanized cleats are needed. The size can be about 4 in. to 6 in. Four are needed, two at the bow and two at the transom. They are bolted on to the side decks at the points where the reinforcing pieces were screwed prior to the fitting of the side decks.

Engines and Steering

Most outboard engines of horsepower from 4 to 20 can be used to propel this boat. The Seagull Century or Anzani Super Single 5 are suitable for quiet inland waters where speed is in any case prohibited.