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Prefabbing Sides is a good idea. Note the position of the structual supports for the cabinets at box ends.
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The trailer body is basically a box made of plywood with 2x4-in. lumber used as joists under the floor.
The floor should be of 5/8-in. plywood, while the trailer sides, top and cabinets can be of 5/8-in. or 1/2-in. Once you've cut all your wood, start by
laying floors on joists and drilling through floor, joist and angle iron. Bolt together securely. Remember, this trailer will take a lot of bouncing.
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Plywood Patterns for budget tent trailer
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To finish off the floor, it's a good idea to lay tile. Remember to arrange the tile so the joint between the two plywood floor sheets is covered.
Also lay the tile before adding cabinets. This avoids intricate the cutting and assures proper fit.
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For the cabinets, use strips of 1x3-in. lumber as supports and lengths of 2x2-in. as structural supports in the corners and at the ends.
Cabinet doors can be covered with vinyl to spruce up the trailer interior.
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The Screen Door can be mounted. This door is removed and laid on the floor when you collapse the trailer.
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For extra sleeping space, make the table so the support leg can be folded under and the table can be detached from trailer bracket.
Then lay the tabletop across the cabinet tops or benches. This can make up into another bed.
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Pivot Blocks and bolts are necessary for tent pole. Note the steel straps to mount the oblique pole.
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Here are some other trailer building tips:
Remember to keep the door handle low enough so there is enough space for collapsed tent poles and canvas.
Use heavy 2 1/2-in. continuous piano-type hinges to secure bed wings to the trailer box. Use awning brackets as sockets for bed-wing support rods.
Use pivot blocks in corners so tent poles fall within the trailer box. Use pivot bolts to secure poles.
Cement sponge-rubber weatherstripping around the top edge of the trailer box. When the trailer is closed in the travel position, this stripping
will absorb shock and help keep road dust out.
Paint the chassis so it will not rust and so it can be hosed off after long, muddy trips.
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It is very possible that you may want some professional help on this important section. Few people have sewing machines capable of double stitching 10-oz.
canvas. Rug-binding and hand awls may also present a problem to the average builder. A good awning and tentmaker can turn out a first-rate job for you
when given the dimensions of your trailer. Remember, the tent poles, from pivot to peak, cannot be longer than the interior dimensions of the trailer box.
Electrician's thin wall conduit - about 9 cents a foot - can be used for tent poles and ribs. This material can be bent with a plumber's bending tool.
Or you can have formed corners of 13/16-in. bar inserted in saw-cut tubing ends. Wrap all joints with tape to prevent wear on canvas. Web luggage straps
can serve to hold poles in the correct standing position.
There is a helpful source for those of you who might have trouble building the chassis and sewing the canvas. It's the Stratford Fabricating Co. in
Bridgeport, Conn. This firm manufactures the open A-frame chassis and the tent. Prices run about $145 for the chassis and $146 for the tent.
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