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How to Build a Vintage Motorcycle Camping Trailer
Plans and Instructions For Building a Vintage Motorcycle
Trailer and Camping Equipment
INSTEAD of the ordinary sidecar so much used by motorcycle
owners I constructed the motorcycle pull behind trailer and camp outfit
herein described to take its place. A companion and I made a 600-mile tour
with it over some of the worst desert and mountain roads in the western
states. The trailer proved its practicability and its advantages over the
sidecar. There was no side drag on the motor, and, as the pull was straight
backward, the motor was held steady in the sand ruts. Another great advantage
over the sidecar is that the pull behind trailer can be detached by pulling
out a pin when it is desired to make short side trips. Many conveniences
may also be incorporated in it that would be impossible with a sidecar
permanently attached to a motorcycle.
The complete equipment consists of the following units:
trailer car, nested mess kit, tent and sleeping bags, and a complete photographic
developing outfit for field work. The total weight of the outfit, with
the necessary food-stuffs and motor-repair parts, is slightly under 250
lb. This weight may seem excessive, but it did not prove so, even on had
roads, and upon one occasion 100 miles of good road was covered in five
hours.
The first part of the equipment to be taken up in detail
is the motorcyle trailer chassis, which is shown in Fig. 1 ready for the
installation of the body. The illustration shows the axle straight. A 3
or 4-in. dip made in it will lower the center of gravity. The bend in the
axle being outside the springs, the tread will be about 6 in. wider, but
otherwise the dimensions given are satisfactory.
The measurements for the chassis are as follows: The axle
is of steel, 33 in. long and 7/8 in. in diameter, turned down at the ends
to fit the cones of the ordinary sidecar wheels, and threaded on each end
to receive a 1/2 in. castellated nut, which is locked with a cotter. The
springs were obtained from the junk pile of a local wagon maker. They consist
of the lower halves of ordinary buggy springs, measuring 33 in. long and
1 1/4 in. wide. As the springs were too stiff, only the three larger leaves
were used, these being secured to the axle with strap bolts or axle clips.
One of the rear-corner joints is shown in Fig. 2. The
sidepieces arc 38 1/2 in., and the ends 19 in. long, and of 1 1/2 by 1
1/2-in. angle iron. One face of the end pieces is cut 22 in. long, to permit
a 1 1/2-in. lap for riveting to the side members, as shown at A. The method
of mounting the springs is shown at B. A piece of 1/8-in. sheet steel,
3 by 4 1/2 in., forms the rear bracket, which should be of such quality
that it will stand hardening. A slot,1 1/2 in. long by 5/16 in. wide, is
cut through the sides to receive a hardened. steel bolt passing through
the spring end in such a manner that it will ride in the slots of the bracket.
The front spring bracket is similar but without a slot, having a hole for
the bolts. and does not need to be hardened.
The tongue, draw head, and automatic brake are shown in
Fig. 3. The tongue consists of two pieces of 1 by 1/8 in. angle iron 52
in. long and the draw head is made of a 6 in. length of 3/4 in. pipe, with
a pipe cap. The lengths of angle iron are bent slightly, at C, to permit
bolting them parallel with the draw head, and to make a spread of about
10 in. where they connect with the front member of the frame. The draw
head is attached to the tongue pieces with machine screws locked with lock
washers. The ends of the screws that project inside of the pipe should
be dressed off smoothly to permit the free action of the drawbar.
The drawbar is made of a machine-steel eyebolt, 6 in.
long and 1/2 in. in diameter. The bolt slides through a hole in the cap,
against which a spring is placed. It exerts pressure on two nuts on the
end of the drawbar, working easily inside of the draw head. The spring
can be adjusted by the nuts on the bar. This arrangement forms a swivel-and-spring
draw head, which is very important, as the safety of the trailer depends
greatly upon it. The nuts on the end of the drawbar should he securely
locked, to prevent them from coming off and thus releasing the drawbar.
A little cup grease should he packed in the spring for lubrication, as
the drawbar is constantly working back and forth when on the road.
The automatic brake may appear unnecessary, but it is
a great convenience when some of the draft rigging breaks. Also, in an
emergency the trailer may be cut off while in motion to prevent a "spill,"
and the brake will prevent it from running over a bank or into another
vehicle. When making camp, it saves marching for something with which to
chock the wheels. If the car is taken down a steep place by hand the brake
is needed. It is self-locking and equalizing when set. It took considerable
experimenting to find the exact shape and dimensions of the levers.
The working details are shown in Fig. 4. Two brake beams
and shoes are required, which are made from metal, 1/2 in. wide and 1/4
in. thick. The beams are bent as shown at D, which is the center of the
angle and the point where the tangents of the two legs cross each other,
the exact locations of the holes being found from this point. The shoes
E are made of steel, 1 in. wide and 1/16. in. thick, riveted to the beams
at F. The two beams are pivoted to the frame at G, Fig. 3. 4 1/2 in. from
the front-end piece, and 1/2 in. from the edge of the side member, inside
measurements, the pivot bolts being 3/16 -in. stove bolts with lock washers.
The bends, to make the peculiar shape of what may be called
the trigger. must be made accurately, to ensure the proper adjustment and
operation of the mechanism, hence the working details must be observed.
The lever is attached, at H, Fig. 5, to the right brake beam, the short
piece J being coupled to the trigger at K. and to the left beam; stove
bolts with locknuts being used throughout.
The automatic release, Fig. 6, consists of an 8 in. auxiliary
wheel supported in a U-shaped bracket made of channel iron. 6 in. long
on each leg. A 1 in. slot, wide enough to permit the shaft of the small
wheel to slide freely in it, is cut in each leg. The bracket is fastened
to the cap on the draw head with a machine screw. The sides of the channel
are filed at an angle to fit the cap snugly when the bracket, drawbar,
and braces are joined. They should be joined so that the longer sides of
the triangle formed are equal.
The braces are made of iron rod having eyes formed in
their lower ends to fit the wheel shaft. They are flattened on the opposite
ends for bolting to the tongue sections, their length being such that the
center of the shaft will be about 13 in. from the point at which they bolt
to the tongue. |
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If the parts are set properly the auxiliary wheel will
work freely in the slots, the natural spring in the brace rods tending
to hold the wheel at the bottom. The release-catch feature is simple. At
a point 8 1/2 in. from the front member of the frame, two holes are drilled
and tapped for machine screws.
Two plates, L and M, Fig. 7, one 2 3/4 in. long. 1 1/2
in. wide, and 1/16 in. thick, and the other 2 3/4 in. long, 3/4 in. wide,
and 1/4 in. thick, are attached to the tongue by the screws as shown. A
small piece of metal N, is placed on top of the thicker plate, to prevent
the trigger from rising out of place when the catch O is pushed up. A carriage
bolt, P, is screwed into the plates at their center, with a locknut to
hold it on the underside. The catch O is drilled to permit free action
on this bolt. A light spring is placed between the catch 0 and the head
of the bolt. The release is fastened to the braces by means of a strap
and stove bolts, as shown in Fig. 6.
The action of the automatic trailer brake is as follows:
When the trailer is released from the motor the tongue drops; the auxiliary
wheel, coming in contact with the road, rises in its slots, pushing the
catch up to clear the trigger, and a coiled spring at the middle draws
the brake beams into action. This spring does not hold the brakes in contact
with the wheels, but merely starts the action. The braking power is derived
from the back pressure on the rod braces. which is communicated to the
lever arrangement on the brake beams. The greater the weight pressing down
on the auxiliary wheel the greater the braking power.
The design of the motorcyle trailer body and the arrangement
of the covers to form tables are shown in Fig. 8. The dimensions of the
box are such that it will fit snugly in the chassis frame. It is made of
1/2 in. lumber with corner and edge strips to reinforce the joints. The
inside edges of the strips are beveled to give a neat appearance to the
panels. The box is water-tight, 13 in. deep at the center and 11 1/2 in.
at the ends, the floor resting on the side members of the frame and on
the tongue at the center.
A tank, 17 in. long, 10 in. wide, and 4 in. high, of 3-gal.
capacity, for a gasoline supply, is set in the rear of the body. It is
held in place with cleats, and is made of galvanized iron, with reinforcing
plates on the ends.
The front cover is so arranged that it can be attached
to the rear of the body for use as a mess table, and for photographic purposes.
Folding standards, at the end of the tongue, at the rear of the chassis
and under the table, together with the brake make the whole stand firmly.
When the table is used for photographic purposes the rear cover, which
is hinged to the body, is braced in a vertical position, as in Fig. 9.
A collapsible wire frame is attached to the cover by means of screw eyes,
on the underside, and a light-proof bag, large enough to enclose the table
and the operator, forms a dark room. As it is used only at night, it is
satisfactory for this kind of work.
As the motorcycle was electrically equipped for lighting,
a small lamp, not shown in the illustration, was bracketed to the rear
of the body. The feed wires were conducted to the end of the tongue, where
slip connections were provided to connect with a terminal on the motor
draft rigging. A long extension cord was provided, permitting the motor
to be set at a distance from the car when in camp. The lamp proved to be
convenient, being used as a tail light for night traveling, as a dark-room
light, and as a table lamp, when the red lens was removed.
The method of coupling the trailer to the motorcycle is
shown in Fig. 10. As slightly differing methods will be necessary with
varying types of motorcycles, it is offered as a suggestion only. The motorcycle
which was used to tow the trailer was provided with sidecar lugs immediately
forward of the rear axle, and with small luggage carrier lugs on the rear
forks. A U-shaped piece of strap iron, 1 1/4 in. long and 1/4 in. thick,
was bolted to the sidecar lugs at such an angle that the draw head of 5/16
in. by 1-in. steel, bolted at the center, would hold the trailer horizontal.
The upward thrust of the trailer was prevented by the U-piece resting against
the nuts on the rear axle of the motor, the downward thrust being held
with 1/4-in. stay rods running from the lugs, on the rear forks, to the
outer curve of the U-piece.
A large cotter, slightly spread, forms the coupling pin
and a cord is attached to it so that the man on the rear seat may release
the trailer in the event of a skid or fall. All nuts and bolts must be
locked either with split washers or cotters. The load should be packed
with the heaviest articles in the center in order to balance the car. Several
screw eyes should be placed in the sides of the body near the floor, an
a lash rope run through them, with which to lash the load solidly in the
car. This prevents shifting and protects the contents in the event of a
"tip-over." |
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The Mess Outfit
The mess outfit is well adapted for motorcycle camping,
as it provides nearly everything necessary for two persons, and is contained
in a small package. While it is designed particularly for motorcycle use,
it should prove a serviceable addition to the equipment of the automobile
tourist and could easily be made to serve for four or more persons, without
enlarging the space occupied by it. Space for extra cups and plates may
be obtained by utilizing the space used for food, in the kit for two persons.
An elaborate set of tinners' tools is not necessary in making the outfit
vise, snips, mallet, pliers, hammer, and a soldering iron being the articles
required. Short lengths of angle iron, of different sizes, clamped in a
vise form the mandrel upon which the bends are made.
The complete outfit nested inside the combination stove
ready for transportation is shown in Fig. 11. It occupies a space 7 1/4
by 7 1/4 by 12 in., and weighs slightly less than 11 lb. without foodstuffs.
It contains the following utensils: coffee pot, two cups, one bowl, stewpan,
frying pan, two plates, sugar can, two sets of knives and forks, an extra
spoon, and a 2-gal. bucket. There is room also for 3 lb. of bacon, 1/2
lb. of butter, cans of pepper and salt, 1/4 lb. of tea, and a small dishcloth.
Three sheets of heavy tinplated sheet metal, a piece of
light galvanized iron, 12 by 36 in., and a piece of black sheet iron. 15
by 50 in., of medium thickness, will provide all the necessary pieces with
the exception of the gasoline tank for the stove. If it is desired to use
the type of stove shown, a small amount of galvanized iron, of medium thickness,
will also be required.
The patterns for cutting and forming the different utensils
are shown in Fig. 12. The main pattern Q is for one of the sides. The sheet
metal is folded on the dotted lines and the joint placed in the center
of one side. On each edge 1/8 in. and 1/4 in. are provided to form the
clinch seam, and 1/8 in. on the bottom edge for the joint. At the top 3/16
in. is provided to form a roll around the reinforcing ring. |
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The bottom pattern is shown at R, the dimensions of which
is best determined after the sides have been formed. It is 1/8 in. larger
than the bottom half of the clinch. |
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The first operation of attaching the bottom plate is
shown at S. The lap of the bottom is folded over the side lap, and clinched
as shown at T. The top roll around the ring, which consists of ordinary
galvanized telephone wire, is formed as shown at U. The side seams are
clinched in the same manner. A small piece of steel, similar to a rivet
set, with a notch the size of the seams cut in its face, aids in making
the clinch properly.
The detachable handle of the cups and the coffeepot are
constructed and attached as shown in Fig. 13. The tongue at the top is
formed into a hook and hooked under the wire ring, a bit of the metal of
the side having been cut out to permit its insertion. A small strap soldered
to the side of the utensil permits the handle to slip down under it when
squeezed slightly. The handles are reinforced along the edges with a small
wire and a roll.
All the utensils are made in the same manner, with the
exception of the stewpan, which has the ends clinched in, the sides and
the bottom being made of one piece. The handles of the stewpan are not
detachable, but form clasps to hold the lid tight, when the equipment for
it and other contents are nested inside. The construction of the bucket
is similar, except that larger seams are made. Since a clinch seam is not
water-tight, all joints in the bucket must be soldered.
The frying pan is made of the black sheet iron. It is
constructed without seams, as shown in Fig. 14, the corners being folded
and riveted. A strap is riveted on one end, to receive the detachable handle,
which is a short piece of 1/8 by 3/4-in. strap iron, with a hook bent upward
on the end.
The construction of the plates is shown in Fig. 15. They
have a 1/2-in. double, flat brim around the edge.
Beginning with the smallest utensil. shown in the rear
row in Fig. 16, the inside measurements are as follows: first cup, 3 1/2
in. square by 4 in.; second cup, 3 3/4 in. square; coffee pot, 4 in. square
by 8 in.; bowl, 4 1/4 in. square; sugar can, 1 by 3 1/2 by 6 in.; plate,
including rim, 7/8 by 5 1/2 by 9 3/4 in.; stew pan, 5 1/2 by 6 by 9 3/4
in.; frying pan, 11 1/2 by 6 1/4 by 10 in.; bucket, 6 1/2 in. square by
11 in. The covers of the coffee pot and the stew pan are made to fit. The
method of forming the edges of the covers and of attaching the handles
is shown in Fig. 17.
The assembling of the mess kit is shown in Figs. 16 and
18. When the articles are nested inside the coffee pot, enough room is
left on top for the half pound of butter and the bacon. The lid of the
stewpan is shown removed in Fig. 18, and space can be seen at the top for
cans to hold salt, pepper, tea, and similar supplies.
The stove was designed so that wood or gasoline could
he used for fuel. Double the space is needed when gasoline is used, in
order to provide a storage tank for the gasoline.
The stove is constructed of heavy sheet iron. The measurements
inside are 7 1/4 in. square by 12 in. A 3-in. hole is cut in one end, and
a 6-in. hole in the other. An old brazing torch was used to make the burner
for the gasoline stove.
The gasoline supply was set in a galvanized-iron tank,
4 in. by 7 in. square, in much the same manner as it was in the origina
torch. The generating pan was removed from the feed stem and placed on
the valve stem, permitting generation of gas in the usual way. The pump
was placed in a corner. In order to spread the flame over a larger area,
a burner cap. taken from a gasoline stove, was attached to the top of the
fire head. A stay bolt was run through the center of the tank to reinforce
it to withstand the air pressure. Care must be taken not to have too great
a pressure in the tank.
When the stove is used with wood as a fuel, it is placed
in a horizontal position, with the open side over a small depression in
the ground. A heavy wire screen is hooked over the inside edges, where
they are turned in, forming a grate. This gives a draft for the fire.
The Photographic Outfit
The photographic equipment need not be detailed completely,
as the only point of special interest is the method of washing and drying
plates. After taking them from the hypo tank, they were placed in the wash
tank. The bucket hanging at the rear lid of the body of the car was filled
with water, and a rubber siphon drew the water down to the wash tank, from
which it ran to the ground. After the plates had been washed, they were
placed in an alcohol tank. The alcohol displaced the water in the emulsion,
causing the plates to dry in a few moments, when placed before an electric
fan driven by current from the motorcycle storage battery.
The Tent and Sleeping Bag
For the making of the small tent. and two sleeping bags,
21 yd. of canvas are necessary, 8-oz. double-twist khaki drill being the
most suitable. One or more blankets for each bag are needed, depending
on the temperature in which the bags are to be used. The dimensions of
the tent are approximately 6 1/2 ft. long, 5 ft. high, and 5 ft. wide.
This is sufficient to cover a motorcycle and two persons. Two bamboo poles
support the tent at the front and rear, a rope ridge support being used.
The method of cutting and joining the canvas, which is
36 in. wide, is shown in Fig. 19. |
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